Wet November days in Venice

 Pick the Australian tour guide :)

There was aqua alta and a 10 minute break in the rain and the tour guide was telling everyone about the great outside bars

Queue of gondole waiting to go under the Accademia bridge

 Very heavy rain in the middle of the day

These tourists weren't missing out on their gondola ride for anything.

I don't think that the person with the orange umbrella would have seen a thing

On the 11th of November there are usually heaps of kids around banging pots and pans and collecting money and treats. Instead of the usual paper crowns these kids had plastic firefighters' helmets -much better on a wet day and easier for parents and teachers to keep track of them.  There are flat San Martino cakes in every pasticceria - a brightly decorated man on horseback with chocolates stuck to the icing.

Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico and the Sale Monumentali Biblioteca Marciana

Yesterday it was impossible to stay outside for long with the combination of acqua alta and rain so we went to the Museo Correr.  We hadn't been there since 1979 and we were interested to see what we remembered. The palazzi of Venice were my first introduction to the grandness of European life and the wealth of art and architecture in comparison to my upbringing in suburban Australia.

This time, to us the Royal Palace from the Austrian occupation of Venice, while grand, seemed out of synch with the real Venice.  We wandered through, looked at the rooms but there was little of Venice in them for us apart from the grand chandeliers and  sculptures by Canova.

 After the Royal rooms there is a great collection of pieces related to Venetian history.  The Wikipedia page for the Correr Museum has a good basic description.


This walnut library was moved from  Palazzo Pisani in San Vidal and reconstructed in the museum.  There is a fabulous collection of manuscripts and books  - those on display are in beautiful condition.

We were glad to have seen the  Museo Storico Navale di Venezia as many exhibits referred directly to items at the Museo Correr.   We spent hours wandering through the many rooms on the first floor and in the paintings gallery upstairs.

The original is at Palazzo Ducale ( used to secretly post notes dobbing people in for some misdemeanor or other) 

Venice lion

 Entry to the Museo Archeologico and the Sale Monumentali Biblioteca Marciana were included in the ticket price and were worth visiting.
There are many Roman statues and other sculptures -most of which seem to have been in the private collections of various Doges over time. Many are in excellent condition.

 Sale Monumentali Biblioteca Marciana

 These photo don't do this room justice.  We only had a small waterproof camera with us because of the heavy rain and didn't expect to be able to take photos.
It is a magnificent room in excellent condition and vibrant rich colours.  There are old globes of the world down the centre of the room and paintings by well know Venetian artists including Tintoretto.

This is a map of the world painted in the renaissance period -sorry i can't remember the friar's name.

Mostro: La Divina Marchesa

As Il Meteo predicted we have had very rainy weather in Venice-as for everywhere else the forecasts are not always right and we have had quite a few hours when the weather has been ok.  It's great when you're staying here and can wander around in light rain and head home or to a museum or gallery if it all gets too wet.  We had intended going to Ferrara today but won't as the forecast there is worse than Venezia -it is clearing up here today.

A few days ago we went to Palazzo Fortuny to see an exhibition called
 La Divina Marchesa: Arte e vita di Luisa Casati dalla Belle Époque agli Anni folli

We mainly went to see Palazzo Fortuny but unfortunately we were only able to see those areas which were part of the exhibition and the rooms were not that well lit. It was an overcast day and the lighting did not show off the beautiful Fortuny fabric wall coverings well. Maybe the many photos that I have seen in the past had lighting specifically for photography or filming.

The exhibition was disappointing because really it was just about a self indulgent wealthy woman and her fawning followers and it was difficult to relate to her at all.  She must have spent the greater part of her life posing for paintings, photos and having fittings for clothes -no different from many monied celebs now I guess.  The excesses of her lifestyle were disturbing and she didn't really seem to have any redeeming features. 

One ballgown virtually completely constructed from peacock feathers would have left a great number of peacocks feeling the cold -if not dead.  There were also scatterings of stuffed or skinned animals  for decoration.

The parts of the exhibition that we found most interesting were items in the Fortuny collection, the wooden models of Ca Pisani and some of the art, and fabric wall hangings.

Castello

We hadn't been to the Basilica dei S.S. Giovanni e Paolo for a long while, so we caught the vaporetto to Rialto and walked around quiet calli  and made our way there. We stopped and looked at many things along the way, including a visit to the Chiesa di San Lio.  With many wrong turns and interesting things to sidetrack us it took ages to go the short distance to SS Giovanni e Paolo.

 

Like everywhere else, everyone  in Venice seems to be glued to a mobile phone including the gondoliere and passengers.  A lot of people look at Venice through their Ipads.

 I was sure that I was way too tall for the Sotoportego Tramontin or Basadonna and bent over so that I wouldn't hit my head

 I guess not :)

Short Venetian women must have been my height

I was messing around with my camera and got it stuck on black and white for a while,

and sepia.

Rob stuck with colour

View into Campo S. Maria  Formosa

The pharmacy in the campo is  very close to the funeral business - not far to go to deal with mistakes

We seem to go through Campo S. Maria Formosa quite often when we cut through from  near S. Marco, the Arsenale or Riva degli Schiavoni - not really a shortcut, just a different route.

At the entrance to Basilica S.S. Giovanni e Paolo there was a beggar- normally I wouldn't take photos of beggars but he was very well organised and was hiding his phone from view and changed his strong phone voice when asking for money 

The Venice public hospital - Ospedale Civile

Saturday morning in Cannaregio

Saturday morning was a bit rainy and there was acqua alta so we put on our boots, went to Tonolo in Dorsoduro for the obligatory caffè e bigne and went for a walk through Cannaregio.  There were heaps of tourists on  Lista di Spagna and  near Strada Nova struggling with suitcases on the wooden acqua alta platforms. We decided to avoid the main drags and wandered around the fondamente nearest Madonna dell'Orte.

 A nonno  going to the market with his grandson - he ended up carrying him when the water got too deep

 Just doing the shopping is hard with acqua alta

The Cannaregio market a messy mixture of water, tourists with suitcases and local people trying to do their shopping

 The statues of the Mori attached to the Osteria dei Mori have been restored. The one at the front looks as though he has a gangrenous nose or his rusty old nose has had antirust liberally applied .

 A great old doors in Campo dei Mori

Venetians must have all been around my height :)

 

We went to the beautiful Chiesa di Madonna Dell'Orto  and were very lucky that the church organ was being played for the whole time that we were there.  The sound was incredible and the organist very competent and he obviously enjoyed playing.  There are many beautiful paintings including many by Tintoretto who is buried in this church.

One sad note was an empty frame in the chapel near the front door of the church. A 1480 Giovanni Bellini painting of "The Madonna with Child" was stolen in 1993 and there is only a photograph of the painting and an empty frame to remind us of the beautiful painting that was there. No doubt it is in some wealthy Bs collection.